Most Luxor visitors rise early for the tombs and temples and then drop in the afternoon. That leaves the evening unplanned. It is a pity, because the town is at its friendliest when the lights come on and the corniche fills with families.
A carriage ride through the old town
A private horse carriage with a guide is a relaxed way to see Luxor in the early evening. The ride follows the Nile corniche, turns into the back streets and church quarter, and stops at the local market for spices, hibiscus and cotton. After tea at a street café, you finish by Luxor Temple and the Avenue of Sphinxes, seen lit from outside.
Sound and light at Karnak
If you want a seated evening, the sound and light show at Karnak tells the story of the temple with lights, music and narration as you move through the site. It runs after dark and lasts about an hour and a half. Wear closed shoes, since the ground is uneven.
Out on the river at sunset
A private motorboat to Banana Island leaves in the late afternoon, so you walk through the groves, drink mint tea and return as the sun goes down behind the West Bank hills. It is a short, quiet trip that suits anyone who has had enough of stone.
Simple pleasures
- A walk along the corniche as boats light up.
- A coffee or a shisha at a riverside café.
- Dinner on a hotel terrace with a view of the water.
- A browse in the souk, where prices are settled by chat.
How to plan the week
Do not stack an evening outing after a dawn start and a long day on the West Bank. A better pattern is one evening plan for every two big days. Keep your free evenings for rest, packing or a slow dinner.
What the souk is really like
Luxor's market is more relaxed than Cairo's. Stalls sell spices, hibiscus tea, cotton scarves, alabaster and lanterns, and the owners will call out as you pass. A smile and a no, thank you is enough. If you want something, ask the price, offer a little less and settle with good humour. Your guide can point out stalls that sell goods locals buy, not just souvenirs.
Restaurants in Luxor range from simple grill houses to hotel terraces with river views. Try grilled pigeon or chicken, molokhia, a lentil soup and fresh bread. The better places fill by eight, so book if you have a group. Many serve no alcohol, though hotels and some riverside spots do. Ask your hotel for a recommendation that suits your tastes, and agree the meal's price on the menu before you order.
Evenings in Luxor are relaxed, but take the usual care. Keep a copy of your hotel's address, agree prices before you ride, and stay with your guide in busy lanes. Dress in light layers, wear comfortable shoes and carry bottled water. If you are travelling alone, a private evening tour with a guide is a comfortable way to see the town after dark.
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Luxor after dark: what to do once the temples close
Horse carriage rides, the souk, Luxor Temple lit up, a sound and light show and sunset on the Nile. Ideas for filling your evenings in Luxor.