Qaitbay Citadel and the lighthouse that once stood on the same spot

Standing on the roof of the fort, with the sea on three sides, it is easy to imagine a tower here. That is the point. The place is a ruin of two ideas: an ancient lighthouse that lit the way for sailors, and a medieval fort built to protect the coast.

The Pharos

Built under the early Ptolemies, the Pharos stood on a small island that was linked to the mainland by a causeway. Ancient writers described a very tall tower with a fire at the top. It gave Alexandria its image of a great port, and the word for lighthouse in several languages comes from its name.

How it fell

The lighthouse stood for many centuries, but a series of earthquakes in the medieval period damaged and finally toppled it. By the late fourteenth century, little more than a stump remained. Its blocks of stone and granite lay on the shore and in the water.

What Qaitbay built on the spot

In the fifteenth century the Mamluk sultan Qaitbay ordered a fort on the spot, to defend against attack from the sea. Builders used material from the ruined lighthouse. The result is a square keep inside an outer wall, with a mosque, passages and a roof from which you can see the whole bay.

• The outer walls and gates, with views of fishing boats.
• The inner keep, with small rooms and a narrow stair.
• The roof, with the best view of the Eastern Harbour.
• Reused blocks in the walls, some of them from the Pharos.

What lies under the water

Underwater surveys in the harbour have recorded many large blocks, columns and statues thought to come from the lighthouse and nearby buildings. Not all are lifted, and visitors cannot see them on this tour, but your guide can explain what was found and how researchers work.

Why the lighthouse mattered

Before the Pharos, ships approaching Alexandria faced low coast, shifting sand and few landmarks. A tall tower with a fire visible from far out made the harbour safe, and traders came as a result. It also became a symbol of the city, appearing on coins. Its design influenced lighthouses across the Mediterranean, and Arab writers later described it in admiring terms.

Seeing the fort in the right light

Morning and late afternoon are the best times to visit. The sea shimmers, the stone warms in colour and the fishermen are out. Midday sun can be harsh, with little shade on the roof. Visit the courtyard first, then climb up, and finish at the outer wall looking back at the city. A walk along the breakwater beside the fort is a pleasant way to end the visit.

The fort is a simple building with few labels, so the story really comes from the guide. A good Egyptologist can explain the lighthouse design, the earthquakes, the sultan's plan and the later use of the fort as a naval college. Without that, it can feel like an empty shell. With it, the place gains a sense of time and meaning.

The antiquities museum at the library holds pieces recovered from the harbour, and the Roman theatre at Kom el-Dikka shows how the city looked under later rulers. Seeing all three on one day gives a good thread from the ancient port to the modern city. Ask your guide to link them as you go.

The fort features on both the half-day and full-day private tours of Alexandria. Open the pages to check what is included.